An Invitation to the Great Djaouro in Gangoumi

After my report of the official audiences at the Lamido’s it is difficult to find another topic that could possibly sound as exciting and mysterious for a “Western” reader. In my opinion our recent invitation to Gangoumi, a traditional village in the bush, ie unreached by roads, electricity and all kinds of high-life, does indeed attain a similar level. To reach Gangoumi one has to travel between three and five hours on the motorbike following a tiny, tricky path through the savanna and the forests (probably the most adventurous aspect of the trip).

The Djaouro of Gangoumi is the traditional chief of the village, ie the official representative for the Lamido of the Djerem district. So this Djaouro has a passion – his passion for Dr. Elisabeth Neier, the famous Nazara that miraculously heals the ill Balejos (= Blacks in Fulfulde) in Ngaoubela. His passion started when he once had an accident and became paralyzed on one side. Dr. Nazara did a wonder and after a while under her magic treatment he suddenly started to slowly regain his capacity to move. So, his passion went on and now goes as far as his official proposal to her some years ago – what is why he is a regular guest in our house. Unfortunately, Dr. Neier can not grant him such a desire for a number of reasons; eg. she is living and working in Ngaoubela, plans to go back to Austria for retirement, and would be wife no. 3(!), as the Djaouro is muslim with currently two wifes and a whole lot of children. He remains persistent and tries to convince her of a life in Gangoumi (arguing that of course they would urgently need proper medical care there) and regularly visits the small Austrian community in Ngaoubela. That’s how we got to know to the Djaouro, as our guest. The great Djaouro of Gangoumi kept on inviting us to his village, to show us his home, make us get to know to his saare (Fulfulde for house or court), see his herd of cows (as an owner of such he is a very proud and wealthy man in his village) and go on a trekking search for Hippopotamus in the wilderness. So finally in Mai, Herwig, my volunteering colleague, and me went to visit the Djaouro of Gangoumi and enjoy the hospitality of his family. The last picture displays the ancient school of Gangoumi!